Late blight is a dangerous disease caused by its tiny micellar unicellular parasites. The ailment quite often affects tomatoes, gardeners are often looking for its description and photo, because knowing the symptoms, you can start treatment in a timely manner and save the harvest.
- Late blight of tomatoes: photo and description of the disease
- Factors contributing to development
- Symptoms of defeat
- Late blight treatment: fungicides, biofungicides, antibiotics
- Folk remedies
- Prevention measures
Late blight of tomatoes: photo and description of the disease
The disease can affect all members of the nightshade family, potatoes and peppers, eggplants and tomatoes can suffer from it. Garden strawberries and buckwheat are often infected.
In 2-3 weeks, a harmful fungus can infect an entire tomato plantation on the site, in order to destroy 1 plant it will take 3-4 days.
The fight against late blight of tomatoes is a rather serious problem, since the disease usually begins to develop during the period of fruit ripening, when it is impossible to take radical treatment measures.
Microscopic micellar parasites can be placed on greenhouse material, equipment, seeds or dead plant residues. The most common source of late blight is potatoes: fungal spores can winter on tubers or in the soil in areas where there were potato beds.
Let's see what late blight of tomatoes looks like, it can be seen in the video in more detail than in the photo, and we also find out an interesting method of treatment:
Factors contributing to development
Phytafluorosis most often affects tomatoes in early August, when the nights are cool and the days are still hot in summer.
The following factors provoke the active development of the fungus:
- lowering the air temperature;
- thickened planting, lack of air circulation;
- frequent fog and dew;
- weak plants that do not receive proper care.
Symptoms of defeat
Late blight can be recognized by the following signs:
- the appearance of white bloom on the leaves;
- darkening of the lower part of the sheets and the appearance of brown spots on them;
- blackening and drying of leaf plates;
- the formation of brown spots on the fruits;
- mummification and decay of fruits;
- the appearance of brown streaks on the harvested unripe tomatoes.
Affected fruits are covered with brown or gray spots that are irregular in shape. These defects can be seen in the photo. Spots can appear already at the stage of fruit ripening.
Note that there may be other reasons for the blackening of fruits, including: excessive dryness of the soil and excessive watering, an excess of fertilizers.
Treatment of phytafluorosis of tomatoes, the best drugs
For the treatment of fungal infections of tomatoes, antibiotics, biofungicides, and chemical preparations are used.
Let's consider the most popular fungicides, for clarity, we will add information to the table.
|Name of funds||Dosage per 10 l of water||How to apply|
|Quadris||10g||Stop spraying 10 days before the first harvest|
|Ridomil Gold||25 g||The treatment is repeated every 2 weeks during the growth period. Under conditions that provoke the development of a fungus, plants can be treated once every 10 days.|
|Thanos||12 g||Plants are treated during the growing season every 10 days. The advantage is that a protective film is formed on the sheets, the agent is able to stop the disease. Popular with gardeners|
|Topaz||2 ml||Has a wide range of effects. It is used for soaking seeds and processing plants. Spraying can be repeated every 10 days|
|Fundazol||10 g||It is effective for the prevention and treatment of the disease when its first signs appear. Spraying can be repeated after 10-12 days.|
|Acrobat MC||40 g||It is used as a prophylactic agent and to fight the disease when the first signs appear. the processing is repeated after 14 days|
The proven old Bordeaux mixture is also used. For spraying, a 1% solution is prepared, the treatments are repeated every 10 days. They stop from the moment when the fruits begin to turn red.
The disadvantage of fungicides is that pathogens quickly develop immunity to the drug. those. should be changed occasionally.
Less effective, but safer for humans, are biofungicides containing bacteria. able to fight fungi.
The most popular universal remedy is Fitosporin. 10 liters of water will require only 5 g of the drug. Spreading through the vascular system of the plant, it suppresses viruses and fungi. Used for soaking seeds, soil treatment before planting, watering the roots. Spraying frequency - after a week, or after 2, depending on weather conditions.
The use of pharmacy antibiotics is no less effective. Five tablets of Trichopolum are diluted in 5 liters of water, liquid soap is added and the plants are sprayed. Prepare the solution in the required amount, it cannot be stored. When washed off by rain, the treatment is repeated. In sunny weather, spraying is done every 15 days. Spraying is stopped three weeks before the planned ripening of the crop.
You can fight late blight with the help of completely harmless means that are popular with summer residents.
Of course, they are suitable for growing tomatoes in small beds:
- mulching, reduces humidity, excludes contact of leaves with moist soil, microflora useful for plants develops under a protective layer;
- piercing the stem with copper wire at a height of 5 cm from the ground level, copper serves as a barrier for infection and fungal spores;
- infusion of garlic, a good prophylactic agent for treating bushes;
- spraying with whey or kefir dissolved in water, lactic acid kills fungal spores, treatments are carried out weekly;
- spraying with a decoction of tinder fungus or infusion of pine shoots.
The greatest effect from folk remedies can be obtained by applying them at the first signs of plant damage.
In order not to observe diseased plants in the beds, it is better to study late blight of tomatoes from a photo, familiarize yourself with its description and treatment, and also learn about preventive measures that will help prevent a serious ailment.
The gardener's first commandment is not to create conditions for the development of fungal infections with your own hands!
Use helpful tips from experienced vegetable growers:
- separate the beds of potatoes and tomatoes;
- do not thicken the planting, observe the correct distance when planting tomatoes;
- pinch the leaves of the lower tier, pinch the bushes in a timely manner, this will provide high-quality ventilation;
- do not leave plant residues on the beds, remove weeds;
- water the tomatoes at the root, sprinkling provokes disease;
- make a complete mulching of the soil;
- systematically use agents for the prevention of fungal diseases;
- follow the recommendations for crop rotation;
- do not neglect the rules of feeding and do not abuse watering;
- use Trichodermin or Fitosporin for soil treatment against late blight.
If it is impossible to influence the weather, then it is within our power to choose varieties that have relative resistance to late blight. Early and ultra-ripening hybrids and varieties are less susceptible to disease. Late varieties and tomatoes planted in greenhouses in the fall require more careful care and prevention. Tall tomatoes are less likely to get sick.
Let's watch a useful video about the prevention of late blight:
So that tomatoes do not suffer from late blight, study the description and photo of the ailment, start treatment when its first signs are found. To enjoy the harvest, even in not the most favorable year, follow the recommendations for caring for the beds, do not ignore preventive measures.